GREENGOLD GARDEN CONCEPTS
CARE AND MAINTENANCE NOTES

WARATAH

THE BRIMSTONE COLLECTION NEW GENERATION WARATAHS FACT SHEET - HOW TO GROW WARATAH

Fire & Brimstone - Vigorous grower producing very large flowers with exceptional vase life.

Wirrimbirra White- Rare in nature, the white waratah grows as a tall upright shrub. Apple green buds open to creamy white flowers. Introduced to cultivation by The Wirrimbirra Sanctuary.

Brimstone Blush - Medium sized flowers, red with a pink blush. Attractive glossy green leaves.

Cardinal Distinctive - flat-topped large cardinal red flowers. Frost and drought resistant. w

Songlines. - Vigorous, mid season flowers. Brilliant red ochre.

Fire 'n' Ice - Large classic shaped flowers with white tips. Vigorous, with attractive wavy foliage.

The first six waratahs to be released in the Brimstone Collection are naturally occurring cultiv of the common NSW waratah, Telopea speciosissima. They are the result of many years of selection and trials by well-known specialist growers, Yellow Rock Native Nursery, and researche Paul Nixon. The six waratahs have been selected for their vigour and reliability. This makes them easier to grow than ordinary seedling waratahs.

They have also been selected for their beauty - each possesses a distinctive feature that makes it a cut above the ordinary - either the color, the shape, the size of its flower or its exceptional vase life.

Waratahs, beacons of the bush, are not difficult to grow, but they do have specialized requirements. While success can't be guaranteed with waratahs, this new generation collection makes it more likely that gardeners can succeed with them. These waratahs will flower in the first or second season, depending on when they are planted.

PLANTING - Spring and autumn are the best times to plant; mid-summer planting of waratahs should avoided. Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Water plants an hour before planting. Remove plant carefully from pot avoiding root disturbance. Do not place the plant deeper than it was in the pot. Water in well. If using drip irrigation ensure drippers are placed in the root ball area until roots are established in the new soil (this may take 3-5 weeks in spring).

POSITION - Waratahs do best in temperate climates but they are very frost hardy. A north easterly aspect in full sun and protected from westerly winds is the ideal, but they will take dappled shade. Stake plants on exposed sites. Avoid planting within the drip line of eucalypts or other large trees.

SOIL - Free draining soil, including sub-soil, is the key to successful waratah cultivation. They grow naturally in sandy soils over 1.5m deep. But they can grow well in a wide range of soil types provided the soil is well drained. In the garden situation this is best achieved by growing them in raised beds or on mounds 25-100cm high. The ideal is beds or mounds of crushed sandstone or coarse white sand or sandy loam mixed with 10% organic matter, such as composted leaf litter. Mounds should be mulched with a thick layer of gum leaves or other organic material to give the plants a cool root run and retain moisture. Keep mulch clear of the stems.

WATERING - Waratahs need regular and thorough watering particularly during hot, dry or windy conditions. Drip irrigation is particularly recommended.

FERTILISING - Do not fertilise at planting. Once plants are established (after six months) fertilise after flowering and again in early autumn with an organic fertiliser low in phosphorous such as composted cow or horse manure. Alternatively, apply a low phosphorous slow release fertiliser after flowering. Nutricote Fern & Palm" formula is particularly recommended. Nutricote or Osmocote for natives is an alternative. Avoid fertilising waratahs in summer, particularly in drought conditions, when they form proteoid roots to protect themselves from heat stress. Fertilisers inhibit the development of these roots.

PRUNING - Waratahs are best pruned by cutting blooms for vases. Otherwise prune after flowering to shape bushes and encourage branching. Cut stems back by half.

CUT FLOWERS - Waratahs make splendid cut flowers with excellent vase life of 10-14 days. Fire and Brimstone should last up to 17 days. Keep stems in water and in a cool place. Re-cut the stem before placing in a vase and add a few drops of bleach and some vinegar or a pinch of citric acid to the vase watelù to prolong vase life.

PESTS - Bud borers can cause damage to developing flower buds. Birds and beneficial insects control these naturally in many gardens, especially if few garden chemicals are used. Borers can be active at any time of the year - look for the tell-tale hole and sawdust at the base of the flower bud or in the join of a branch, Remove sawdust, use a thin wire to reach into the hole and remove the caterpillar. There is a Tree Borer Kit (available from your Greengold Garden Centre) consisting of an insecticide and syringe which can be injected into the borer hole, or alternatively you can spray pyrethrum or carbaryl into the hole. Monthly repeat sprays may be necessary.

CULTIVATION - Waratahs do not like competition from weeds, so keep beds or mounds weed free. Mulching helps to keep weeds down. Hand weed as necessary avoiding damage to waratah roots. After flowering waratahs benefit from a light cultivation. Fork over the soil, taking care not to damage roots, fertilise and re-apply mulch.

CONTAINER PLANTS - These waratahs make excellent tub plants. Pot on to larger containers any time of the year except mid-summer. Use a pot that is only one or two sizes bigger than the existing pot. Overpotting results in waterlogging and soil turning sour due to lack of aeration. A free draining potting mix is essential. Use Debco's Acid Loving mix or a brand specially formulated for natives and proteas. Potted waratahs need regular fertilising. Add 3gms/litre slow release fertiliser such as Nutricote Fern & Palm", applied Just after flowering, or composted cow or horse manure In spring and autumn. Water daily in summer and during hot or windy weather. Reduce water in winter,