HIBISCUS |
| POSITION:
In order to obtain the best results from your hibiscus, the selection of the planting
position is most important. Make sure you choose an open sunny situation, preferably
sheltered from cold prevailing winds. Full sun is
essential, although hibiscus will grow and survive in shaded positions, they will not
bloom as prolifically as if planted in full sun. Hibiscus do well on northern walls,
particularly the modern varieties. Hibiscus will grow with other shrubs, but they
prefer to be planted on their own, and to obtain optimum results prepare a special bed for
them alone, so that they do not have to compete for food, light, water and sun. Half a
day's sun is the minimum requirement Remember also that hibiscus grow happily in pots,
given an open potting mix and kept moist . HIBISCUS CHOICE: Choose a hibiscus to suit the position. If a tall plant is required or a low one, choose one in the right height range; too often we see a huge plant right next to a front gate, or a low one in a hedge used for privacy. Nowadays, it is possible to obtain a hibiscus tailor-made to your requirements. Growth characteristics of hibiscus vary greatly. They range from low, drooping or sprawly shrubs to trees 6m. (20 ft) high. Also flowers are single, semi- double, and double and come in a large range of outstanding color combinations. SOIL: Hibiscus prefer a sandy soil which has been enriched by the addition of compost with good drainage being essential . If the drainage appears doubtful at all, it is a good idea to raise the level of the beds intended for planting about 25-35 cm. (10-14 inches). This is a good practice where a heavy clay soil is in existence or where there is seepage in the area after heavy rains. Hibiscus cannot tolerate "wet feet". PREPARATION OF THE SOIL: Proper
preparation of the soil prior to planting will help ensure vigorous, healthy plants and
reduce the problem of after care of soil apart from the regular addition of organic
material. The location where the plants are to be set out should be prepared some time in
advance of planting. Most soils are low in organic matter and hibiscus plants benefit by
the addition of this material. Mark off the area where the plants are to be set and spread
a good thick cover of compost, leafmould or well decomposed manure, well rotted down
chicken litter, etc., and fork well into the soil. A light application of Dolomite (70g per sq. metre) and a balanced fertilizer(100g per sq. metre) should be used. After fertilizing, soil should be rested for 2 or 3 weeks, during which time hibiscus plant selection and purchase can be made. Remember, build up garden beds if you have heavy or clayey soil. PLANTING: Always remember when planting, that you do not plant too deeply. Dig your hole slightly larger and deeper than your container and the plant should be planted at approximately the same level as it is in the existing pot or just slightly deeper. The soil should be made firm around the plant with light pressure applied by the feet. A suitable mulch should be applied after the area is planted and then thoroughly saturated, preferably with a sprinkler. Also stake immediately afier planting, to prevent rocking of plants until their root system is firm. PRUNING: Pruning is done for a number of reasons, the two main ones being to shape the plant and produce more vigorous growth and, in turn, more flowers. The best time to prune hibiscus is just before the new season's growth, usually about September - sometimes later in cooler regions -- but never before the last expected frost. You should prune off about one-third; eg if your hibiscus bush is 3m. high, bring it back to 2m every few years. It's not a bad idea to cut it back even harder to rejuvenate the whole plant, especially if the bush is very old and straggly. FEEDING: After pruning, do not
rush out and throw heaps of fertilizer around the plant. It would not only severely damage
the root system, but could kill the plant outright Remember, now that it has been pruned,
roots only have two thirds of the upper plant to nourish and any fertilizer at this time
is of little use to the plant. Wait, usually about three weeks after the pruning date, and
then check the plant for new shoots. When you see them is the time to feed, but do it ever so lightly and then repeat every 3-4 weeks right through the growing season. ORGANIC LIFE or DYNAMIC LIFTER ideal feed for the first fertilizer after pruning and then follow up feeding of Nitrophoska or a complete well balanced fertilizer will suffice, making sure that good percentage of potash is included, to give better flowering. Additional application of NUTRICOTE or OSMOCOTE slow release fertilizer will also be beneficial. Water in lightly after each application. CARE: Water and mulch. Water well.This means thoroughly soak the ground. Don't water again until the ground has dried. In hot weather regular watering could be every second or third day, and in cool weather, perhaps only once a week. Mulch preserves moisture from evaporation. It controls weeds, and lowers maintenance. Keep the mulch away from the trunk of the plant to prevent fungus development or root rot. PESTS AND DISEASES: Watch out for garden pests -- insects and diseases. The good gardener should be continually on the alert for signs that they are at work. Familiarise yourself with symptoms of their presence. Two main pests to watch for are Hibiscus Beetle in the flower and chewing caterpillars on leaf but these can be easily checked with CARBARYL, available from your local GREENGOLD garden centre. By far the worst enemy of hibiscus is wet feet (a term which means excess moisture around the root zone), which causes root rot or collar rot. This can be avoided by thoughtful planting, making sure the area is not prone to holding excess water, especially in winter. |
